THE RARE INDONESIA EMBROIDERY HISTORIC COLLECTIONS @Copyright Dr Iwan S 2010
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THE RARE INDONESIA EMBROIDERY COLLECTIONS
This info and illustrations Compile by Dr iwan S from his private vintage embroidery collections arraged in chronologic historic information of embroidery in the world and especially Indonesia from many vintage embroidery books
@copyright Dr Iwan Suwandy 2010.
The illustration only some rare embrodery ,especially from Dr iwan S. private collections:
1. The vintage Palembang and Lampung embroidery late XIXth centuy – early XXth century.(The complete illustrations will show later at THE VINTAGE RARE PALEMBANG AND LAMPUNG EMBROIDERY in this blog please read UCN to know the illustration have finish)
2. The Vintage Minangkabau embroidery early XXthCentury.(The complete illustrations will show later at THE RARE VINTAGE MINANGKAU EMBROIDERY COLLECTIONS)
3.The vintage Tionghoa(Indonesia chinese overseas) embroidery early XXth century, including the beads embroideries (The complete illustration will show later at THE RARE VINTAGE TIONGHOA EMBROIDERY COLLECTIONS)
4. The Vintage Kebaya Emboidery 1953 (the complete illustrations will show later at THE RARE VINTAGE KEBAYA EMBROIDERY 1953)
II. THE INDONESIA EMBROIDERY CHRONOLOGY HISTORIC COLLECTIONS .
1. ANCIENT EMBROIDERY
(1) BEFORE CHRIST
(a) The Embroidery (or sulaman ) can be traced back to the Iron SAge, the Ancientwoman discovered that she could used thread to join pieces of fur to make clothes, as a natural progress, she also discovered that the same thread could be used to make decorative pattern on the clothes. She also used colourful beads,stone and bones to add these decorations.
(b) Several excellent examples of beautiful embroideries are still surviving until now , we can look at the museum in Egypt,China,Persia, India and England.Each Country has its own distinctive style of embroidery which incorporates the cultyr and imaginery from their history and tradition.
(c) 475-221 BC
During China archeologic ecavation the Chu tomb in 1958 , they found China ancient embroidery circa 475 BC with design phoenix bird.
The other excavation Han Tomb circa 206BC-220AD at Mawangdui , they found embroidery with Longevity design (Shou) and also a silk cloth approximately 50 cm wide and 110 cm long that contain two text about medicine and forty-four drawing depicting figures engaged in physical (may be this embroidery, look at the illustration of mawangdui embroidery design physical exercise)
(d) no information and illustration of indonesia ancient embroideries exist, may be Indonesian archeologist will send us via comment.
(2) BEFORE EUROPEAN CAME
(a) VIII th- Xth Century AD
The Persian Archeologist report in 1922 (William Cohn,Die Kuns des Alten Persien or The Art Collection of Ancient Persian,Berlin,122, Dr Iwan S. rare vintage Book Collection) that they found two Persian emboidery
(a1) Ancient Persian Embroidery design bird 9th-10th Century AD. (look at the illustration cap Persian 8thCtry.)
(a2) Ancient Persian embroidery design bird 8th-9th century AD (look at the illustration Cap.Persian 9thCtry)
(3) AFTER EUROPEAN CAME
During Ming Dynasty some portugal businessman visited China and returned home with sample of Chinese embroidery.
During Qing Dinasty, embroidery Workshop were formed and Chinese embroidery became more elegant and cover a wider aesthetic rage.Embroideries is a traditional Chinese craft which caused of pulling colored thread through a back ground with meedle to STICH PATTERN (look at the same style with The Tionghoa ecthnic embroideries design at THE RARE VINTAGE TIONGHOA EMBROIDERY EARLY XX CENTURY)
(c) British and Franch embroidery (1625)
When King Charles I ascended throne in British and his royal Queen was a French Princess , the French fashion taste influence England , Plain silk were used in preference to heavily embroidered.
(d)Westren embroidery (1848-1873)
Jacob Schien started the first commercial embroidery manifacturing establisment in New York this year.
Fourteen company manifactory embroidery Machine is Switzerkand have manifacturing hand loan embroidery machine.
Alphonse Kursheen imported tweleve of the then new embroidery hand loons from St Galen Switzerland, making him the first American to used a Machinized embroidery procress.
2. VINTAGE INDONESIA EMBROIDERY
(1) LATE 19th CENTURY
(a)The earliest record of lampung tapestrry embroidered wilk gold or Non gold threats-embroidery.
(b)Orginally a long straight Arab inspired.Originate in the Middle east, while other argue that it may have cam from nearly China. Derived from the Arab word KABA meaning cloth and inroduced to Indonesia via the Portugeus lenguage , the term KABAYA has came referd to a garment whose origin appeared to be a blouse. It was first worn in Indonesia.
(c) The Arab kebaya style was adopted by the Indonesia Madame or Nyonya and Tionghoa madame or Encim of the early Tionghoa community.
A subgroup of the Chinese overseas(Tionghoa) who gradually transformed into a shapely,embroidered, transluscent bluse,fastened with a set of chained brooches (Peniti kebaya encim, look the illustration of dr Ronny Handokos mother-inlaw kebaya encim vintage photo circa 1938,she was my Mother auntie take photo by Dr iwan S mother, also the vintage native sumatra women with Native Kebaya ) worn with a matching hand-drawn Batik sarong and beaded slepper.
(2) EARLY 20TH CENTURY
(a)Before Indonesian National Movement began in 1928, all Indonesian women still wear the native traditinal embroider wear still same from the late 19th century, and the same with the etnic Tionghoa(Chinese Overseas in Indonesia) they used many chinese homeland embroidery style for wedding and other religious ceremony.
(b)In 1900 starting the great embroidery on Kebaya,handkherchief and other wedding ceremonial for wedding room in Sumatra and Java were done by a manual foot operate Sewing Mechine mark Singer.(look at the illustration native Indonesia created embroidery by Singer machine and the emblem of Singer on vintage picture postcard)
(c)Between 1960-1980 Dr Iwan S collecting the Palembang-Lampung embroidery and The Tionghoa embroidery, because many foreigner ask him to seek this very rare and expensive collections, some he sold but the best collections still keep until this day,and please look some sample illustrations. (the complete illustration will installed later at THE RARE VINTAGE PALEMBANG AND LAMPUNG EMBROIDERY COLLECTIONS and THE RARE VINTAGE TIONGHOA EMBROIDERY COLLECTIONS. Very difficult to find this rare collectins in good conditions0.
(3) AFTER THE WORLD WAR II
During the full emergence of the National struggle in Indonesia, expatriat european women stoped wearing the Kebaya because it was identified with the typical Indonesia ethnic style and Kebaya became associated with Ethnic Indonesian Nationalism (look the illustration of Ethnic Indonesian women with Kebaya and sarong dress circa 1920-1940 , the rare vintage photo collection Dr iwan S.).
(b) 1942-1945 During Dai Nippon Occupation
Educated expatrian European women in civil Prisoner of war wear Kebaya rather than westren dress because Dai Nippon allocated kebaya as the prisoner wear.
(c)August,17th.1945 during Proclamation day
The only women in atttandance,Mrs S.K.Trimurti beside Mrs Fatmawati Sukarno and Mrs Rahmi Hatta wearing kebaya. this image helped tranform the kebaya from traditional dress to the status of National dres for Indonesian women.
(d)During middle of 20th Century Kebaya worn in Java and Sunda after the Dutch Colonizations
(e1) It was trend to wear a black corset under Kebaya so you can see the corset beneath the thin material of the kebaya with simple embroidery on the edge of the kebaya called bilin-bilin (look th eillustraion of bilin-bilin embroidery Kebaya 1953)
(e2) Dr Iwan S in 1994 found the very rare Kebaya embridery design sampling, keeping in one platic Album with the year 1953, very pity anonim, may be this from Tionghoa embroidery hand machinal factory, when the owner died ,her son thruogh out his mother collections and I found at Lapak or the ex dress traders, and this the only one vintage kebaya 1953 collections ever seen and reported.Dr Iwan s very lucky (look the sample illustrations, the complete illustration will installed later at THE RARE VINTAGE KEBAYA EMBROIDERY 1953)
@copyright Dr Iwan S.2010.